Assembling your PC
So, you’ve got your components, and you’re ready to put them all together (if you haven’t, check out my component selection guide for some handy tips).
As I mentioned in Part 1, this is the easy bit. It’s also the most intimidating if it’s your first time. Follow some ground rules, and it’ll be smooth sailing.
First, and most importantly, NEVER force anything. If something’s not fitting in a slot or a port, make sure you’re inserting it in the right place, and at the right angle (the angle is particularly important for Graphics Cards and M.2 storage drives). For cables, make sure you’ve got them oriented the right way.
Second, observe basic precautions to avoid electro-static discharge, or ESD. ESD is just a fancy term for the static that builds up on your body (the old “rub your hair on a balloon” experiment). Now, ESD is somewhat controversial in the PC building community. Many people will tell you that it’s a myth, because they’ve built machines for years and never damaged them with static shock. The problem with that argument is, ESD damage is typically subtle. What happens is, extremely high voltages of electricity impact the circuit boards, literally boring tiny holes in the material. These holes are too small to see with the eye, but they’ll cause current to run inconsistently across circuits. The result is the occasional crash, or performance reduction, which most of these builders will chalk up to typical software glitches. (If you’re really interested in ESD, there’s a delightful 80’s video about it featuring none other than Steve Wozniak).
Now, before you start building a clean room in your basement, read on. While you’ll notice that most PC components are shipped in silver static-safe bags to protect against ESD damage, the reality is that the bulk of consumer computer parts are either not overly sensitive to ESD, or are designed with additional shielding to be resistant to it. If you see yourself building lots of PCs down the road, or you just want to be safe, I use a mat/bracelet set like this one, and this tester. The way a setup like this works is, the mat and tester are plugged into a grounded outlet in your house. Electrical build-up is avoided on the mat, as any errant charge runs naturally into the ground circuit in your wall. The wrist strap, if properly adjusted, will ensure that any charge on your entire body will also dissipate through the mat and away. I keep my mat rolled up on a shelf, and I just un-pack it and plug it in as necessary (pro tip, the tester secures to the mat using one of the metal snaps, and then plugs into the wall).
Now, if you’re on a budget, or you don’t see yourself doing a lot of electronics assembly, you can still mitigate the risk of ESD damage by doing the following:
-Never work on a surface that’s prone to static build-up, like carpet.
-Before you start to work, touch a large conductive metal surface to discharge any built-up static.
-This is an odd one. NEVER put your parts down on the OUTSIDE of the anti-static bags they’re shipped in. Those bags work by pulling all the static away from the inside of the bag and ONTO the outside, so using the bags as a GPU coaster is a great way damage your components. However, DO store spare and uninstalled parts INSIDE the bags until they’re ready to be installed.
-Spend five bucks and get a stand-alone ESD wrist strap. Instead of clipping it to an ESD mat, clip it to a large metal surface (like the interior of your PC’s case). This will dissipate some built up charge into that larger surface, mitigating the risk of damage.
Ready to get started?
First up, you want to install as many parts onto the motherboard as possible before it goes into the case. Installing some of these parts requires you to put a fair amount of pressure onto the motherboard, and its easier to avoid flexing the board if it’s resting on a flat even work surface (even if all you’ve got is a hardwood floor or a desk).
Start with the CPU:
Intel processors are secured by a frame and a spring-arm style latch. First, open the socket by pulling the arm slightly to the side, until it springs up on its own. Then pull back the plate, and remove the plastic CPU socket protector from the frame (Hold onto this piece of plastic in case you ever need to ship your motherboard, either for repairs, or resale).
Avoid touching any of the pins in the socket, or any of the contact pads on the underside of the CPU. Look to the small triangle marks on the corner of the socket and processor to align the CPU correctly. Then, holding the chip by the edges, set it down in the socket. Once it’s in, close the cover, and pull the lever back down, pulling it around the tab until it’s secured. A decent amount of pressure on the arm is necessary to lock it in place.
If you’re installing an AMD chip, the process is largely similar, save that the pins are on the chip itself, and the contact points are in the socket Some AMD chips like thread-ripper will use a screw to hold down the retaining bracket, but the principal is the same.
Next, install your chosen CPU cooler:
NOTE: all CPU coolers require thermal paste, a special conductive substance which dramatically improves the flow of heat from the processor lid through to your cooler. Most coolers that you purchase will have the paste pre-applied, so if you see some grey goop on there, you’re already good to go. Otherwise, clean both the CPU top and the cooler contact surface with 90% alcohol wipes, then apply a very small drop (about the size of a chubby grain of rice) to the center of the processor). Then, carefully install your cooler. Bear in mind that if you swap out the cooler, CPU or motherboard down the line, you’ll need to repeat this process. I use this paste.
As to the actual install:
For intel stock air coolers, you’ll simply center the cooler over the processor, then push down, ensuring that the four plastic pins push through the mounting holes on the motherboard and lock securely into place. If you ever need to remove these, twist the pins until they pop up, and gently pull each one out.
Third party coolers all mount slightly differently, so you’ll want to consult the manuals. Most will involve a backplate, which goes on the back side of the motherboard like a giant washer, helping to hold screws into place. Consult your cooler’s manual to determine which bracket and hole pattern to use, as they usually will have several options to fit different socket sizes. With all-in-one liquid coolers, install the cooling block onto the processor, then carefully lay the attached radiator aside until you’re ready to install the board into the case.
Next up, M.2. storage, if you’re using it:
These cards are keyed so they’ll only insert into the slot in one direction. But before you do anything, locate the small standoff screw that came with your motherboard, and screw it into the appropriate hole in your motherboard, located a couple of inches away from the M.2. socket.
Then, line up your card, and slide it into the slot at roughly a 30° angle. When it’s in, gently press the drive down, and verify that it’s mounting hole lines up with the standoff in the motherboard. If it doesn’t give it a gentle wiggle and some pressure until it slides further into the slot. Then screw it in with the included screw.
On to the RAM:
If you’re not populating all of the ram slots on your motherboard (i.e. you’re only using two sticks of ram but you’ve got four slots) you’ll want to consult your motherboard manual, as there’s usually a specific set of slots that need to be used first. If you get this wrong, your system may power on okay, but you’ll run into issues later.
Once you know which slots you’re using, insert the RAM. Again, these are keyed, so line up your stick so the notch fits the slot correctly, then insert them, pressing evenly along each stick. The small ram removal lever on each slot should lock upright as the ram’s pushed in place.
Installing the Motherboard:
With the main board mostly populated, it’s time to install it in your case.
It pays to prep your chassis first. Remove any boxes of screws or packaging. Unscrew the side panels (and remove the top panel if you’re using an AIO cooler). I also gently rest all of case wires so they fall outside the case, leaving me with room to work.
Before you install the board, you’ll probably need to install motherboard standoff screws into the main panel of your case. Because most cases support different sized motherboards (ATX, M-ATX etc) you need to ensure that ONLY the standoffs necessary for your board are installed into the correct holes in the case (if you don’t, a standoff could touch the circuitry on your motherboard, creating an electrical short… bad news). I usually just eyeball where the holes in the motherboard are, compare them against the available standoff hole locations, and count to make sure I haven’t put a standoff where it doesn’t belong.
The final prep step is to insert the motherboard I/O shield into the rear of the case. This is the thin springy rectangular plate (usually bare aluminum) with all the holes in it. To install, simply press the plate into place, making sure it’s the right way up so that all of the ports will fit through the cutouts. Make sure it’s pushed ALL THE WAY into the case opening.
Next comes the awkward part. Using all three of your hands, carefully place the motherboard down inside the case. You’ll need to angle it a little so that the ports pass THROUGH the I/O shield, then sit the board down on the standoffs. If your IO shield has thin pieces of metal sticking out of it, bend them gently so that they rest against the sides of the port mountings on your motherboard. ALSO, make sure that they don’t bend the other way and block your ports, particularly your USB ports (I’ve done this more than once). I usually find that you need to set it down in the case, and then lift it a few times, putting pressure on the far side of the board until the mobo mounting holes line up with the standoffs supporting it.
If you’re using an AIO, this part’s particularly hard. I usually just gently put the board down inside the case, without worrying too much about the standoffs lining up. Then bend the AIO radiator tubing until the RAD is resting against the top of the case. THEN align the motherboard ports through the IO shield, and secure the board with the screws included with your case. If you’re having trouble with the IO shield pushing the motherboard out of alignment, having a screwdriver with a magnetic tip helps immensely (I use this iFixit kit for all my electronics builds). I setup a screw on the driver, hold the motherboard in place with my free hand, and then insert my first screw. Once it’s held down in a couple of places, it’s short work to install the rest of the screws.
Next, you’ll want to connect all of your case’s internal cables to the motherboard. The wires for the power switch, reset switch, power LEDs, and reset LEDs all plug into a small grid of exposed pins, usually near a corner of the motherboard. This can be hard to find, so check the diagram near the beginning of your manual. The connectors will simply slide onto the motherboard’s pins, and there’s usually a somewhat cryptic set of labels immediately next to the grid to help you figure out which pins are which. The power and reset switches can go on in either direction, but it’s important to get the LED pins plugged in correctly, as one is positive and one is negative. If your case has usb and/or audio ports, now’s a good time to connect those cables to the board as well. The HD audio connector can be a little harder to find, as it looks very similar to the old USB 2 internal sockets on the motherboard. The trick is that one of the pins is blanked out in the socket (so the audio connector can only be inserted into the audio socket).
Now’s also a good time to connect up all of your case fans. Unless you’re using a dedicated fan controller, you’ll just need to plug all of your fans into the available fan header ports on the motherboard. The BIOS of your motherboard will automatically set these to the appropriate speeds on the fly as your system heats up. These cables are keyed with a notch, so just slip the notch around the protruding plastic tab on each header port and you’re good to go. Make sure your CPU cooler is connected to the CPU_FAN header.
ON ROUTING CABLES:
While connecting all of these cables, it’s smart to consider the best way to rout them. Most cables have various holes and channels that will allow you to guide your cables so they don’t flop around and criss-cross unnecessarily. Taking care to wind these cables out of the way will leave you with a cleaner looking build, and it’ll also ensure that none of the cables get snagged on exposed internal fan blades (it’s good to remember that as you close up your case, poorly routed cables may catch a fan as you’re locking up, and you won’t know it till you turn on your machine and hear a nasty grinding sound as the blades hit the cable. I usually use zip ties to hold the more ungainly cables to the various mount points build into cases. Go sparingly with those, as it’s a pain to remove them if you need to replace or re-run a cable later.
The next few parts can be inserted in whatever order you choose, but I prefer to leave the power supply for last, as it’s thick cables get in the way once they’re in.
Inserting the Graphics Card:
Dropping in a GPU and any add in cards (like a usb card for extra ports, or a soundcard for higher fidelity audio) is a good next step. First, locate the PCI-E slot you’ll be using for your GPU. Some motherboards require that you use a specific slot, so it pays to check your manual. Then, remove the thin metal covers in your case that line up with that slot. Most modern GPUs are “double-wide” meaning that they’ll take up two of your case slots, even though they only insert into a single PCI-E slot on the motherboard.
Insert the card at a slight angle. The metal tab on the bottom edge of the card slips between the motherboard and the case, and the top right angle tab with the hole in it will usually slip onto a 90° “shelf” built into the case. Guide that lower tab into place, simultaneously inserting the long thin connector on the bottom of the graphics card into the PCI-E slot. Press firmly to make sure the GPU fully seats in the slot. If the card ends up sitting at an angle, press the release pin on the end of the PCI-E slot, gently pull the card free, and then re-install.
Finally, secure the GPU to the case by throwing a screw into the mounting bracket (this is the same screw point that held on those PCI-E case slot covers you removed earlier).
Installing off-board storage:
If you’re using a traditional SSD or hard drive for your storage device, install that next. Drive install mechanisms vary. Most cases will have a bunch of brackets that screws into place, but sometimes the brackets have a tool-less latch mechanism. Other cases have the bracket integrated into a bay, so you just insert the drive onto a data/power cable built into the case.
If you’ve got a bracket, simply remove it, slip the drive into place, and secure it to the bracket with screws. Make sure the power and data ports on the drive are facing out, then place the bracket and drive combo back into it’s bay and secure. Connect the drive (or drives) to the motherboard using a SATA cable.
Hooking up the Power Supply Unit (PSU):
It’s time to install the snake of cables that is your power supply. If you’ve bought a modular PSU, you’ll want to count out all the different power connections your build is going to need, and connect those cables to the power supply before it’s installed.
Start by installing the PSU box into the computer. Most cases put this on the bottom back corner. Many PSU’s have multiple hole patterns for different mounting solutions, so don’t panic if it seems like a few of the PSU mounting holes don’t line up. If your PSU can install in multiple orientations, make sure it’s oriented so that the fan on the side is exposed. Otherwise your power supply will quickly die of asphyxiation.
Rule of thumb is, if any PC part has a power port, make sure it’s got power plugged into it. This may sound obvious, but some external cards like those used to add extra USB ports may work okay without the extra power cord connected, but you’ll probably experience crashes, etc.
Here’s the rundown of things that need power connections:
-The motherboard itself typically has two. One is the wide 24 pin plug. Many PSU manufacturers design these so they’re actually two separate plugs connected to the same bundle of wires. This is because some motherboards use a smaller plug with fewer pins. Both pieces of the plug will have tabs. Slide them together, forming one 24 pin plug, and then connect it to the motherboard port. The other mobo power socket is a simple 4 pin squared port, often near a corner.
-All drives that aren’t installed on the motherboard itself (i.e . anything except an M.2. or PCI-E slotted drive) need power. Most use a SATA power connector (shaped like a long thin “L”) but some older drives also use a “molex” connector (four thick pins inside a plastic curved plug). It’s also pretty common to find molex to SATA adapters included with power supplies, so if you find that you need an extra SATA connection, just adapt from molex. Interestingly, SATA and molex power cables from a PSU are always made with multiple plugs on the same cord. For this reason, you want to install your drives so they’re all stacked close together in your drive bay, so you can more easily plug each drive in using the single cable. If this is too fiddly or awkward, there’s no harm in using multiple cables, but it does create more clutter.
-If you’re using a graphics card, most likely your card will have one or two six pin ports on the top. These ports look like the power ports on your motherboard (don’t confuse them with the long thin wafer connector on the top… those are used for connecting multiple graphics cards together in SLI or crossfire). Fill any plugs you have with power cables. If you are trying to do SLI, you’ll need a special SLI bridge from NVIDIA, which connects the two cards together and allows them to sync up. I get into why this isn’t usually worth the hassle in part 1 of this article.
Alright! At this point, you’re about ready to roll. Before you plug in your monitor, peripherals and power, glance through your whole system, making sure all your cable connectors are properly seated, that no cables are at risk of snagging on case fans, and that you haven’t forgotten to plug anything in. Once you’re sure, close up your case and remove your ground strap (NEVER ground yourself to anything receiving live power from the wall!).
Even before you power up, you should see a power LED light up on your motherboard to indicate that it’s getting power.
Hit the power button, and enjoy that wave of satisfaction as your system powers on.
Then, plug in a Windows USB installer drive, select it from the BIOS if necessary, and follow the prompts to get your PC up and running.
If you’re system has any issues, I’ll be writing a future article on troubleshooting common PC problems, including those specific to new builds.